Mosin Rifles Models

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Sniper Rifles



 


Fake or Real?
Mosin Nagant Izhevsk Only
Tula Snipers are similar but, have characteristics of their own





These examples are always changing.
PLEASE understand, Just knowing this information will not qualify you to purchase a PU sniper rifle. Many other factors are used by excperts
in determinining if a sniper is real or not. This is just a few of the very obvious ones. It also taks many years to be able to ID fake sniper rifles.
You do not get to that point over night. PLEASE, if you are purchasing a sniper rifle, ask an expert on the forums.
We have a couple of very good "experts" on the forums (and a few who think they are). ;-)

Scope Body


Real on the left side___________________Fake on the right side



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Mounts and Bases

Real on the left side___________________Fake on the right side

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Stock Cutouts

Real on the left side___________________Fake on the right side

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Barrel Shank

On the left side of the barrel shank just above the wood line is where Izhevsk put their scope numbers. These numbers matched the scope that was on the rifle. If a scope was damaged they would grind that number off (or line it out and leave it on) and restamp the new scope number in (usually). Sometime they just ground it off and left it blank, but it will show in the light.

But the give away is the proof marks. "Proof marks" that were placed on the rifle by the armory when the rifle was made are up higher or on top on a sniper rifle. This was done to allow for the scope number down lower. So a sniper rifle (even an exsniper rifle) will have the proofs up higher.


Real on the left side___________________Fake on the right side

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Bolts

Real on the left side___________________Fake on the right side

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Common Errors Made on Fakes

1) Any gun with a date other than 1942-1944 with a PU scope on it. (suspect)

2) Phillips head screws instead of straight slots on any screws.

3) Laser cut lettering on the scope. Not machine cut, but dimpled in the lettering.
This is the way the lasers cut lettering into the metal.

4) Also look for the import mark on the reciever. If it is under the scope mount base,
that would indicate a fake also.





















  
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